Online Forum for the 2012 Rav4 EV

Is the heater assembly really $2,235.07?

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~bracket~sub~assy~he~87101-42010.html

Is there some other generic available for less or just the heating element from DENSO?
Looks like I will be getting by with the seat heaters. Too bad none on the rear seats.
Just happy the DC-DC converter continues to work.

I got one on eBay for $350. It's been working great for around 6 months, or so.

I have a failed unit at the shop.

I've joined the club. 72k miles.

No heat on Sunday, made appt. for today (Tues.) and dropped it off at 6am, just got the diagnosis (11am): DC-DC converter & heater to be replaced.

Surprisingly, they may have the parts in by day after tomorrow.

I use Toyota of Seattle as my servicing dealer. They have not screwed up yet, sample size of three visits. They do always lead with "$149 diagnosis fee", but so far I've never paid it, because the repairs have so far been covered items under either the original 60k warranty or the extended warranty.

[two days later]

Done, and back in my driveway Total charged to Toyota Extra Care -- Vehicle Service Agreement (TEC VSA) was $5.3k .



Heater = 87101-42010, $2,775
DC Converter = G9270-0R011, $2,296 (<- possibly same/interchangeable as Tesla Model S 6009170-00)

Not charged: either of the coolants (blue G48 and pink) that waidy had on his repair ticket.

Interesting note, "PERFORMED TESLA FIRMWARE UPDATE". The underhood sticker has not changed, still reads 1.3.101 .


Some thoughts on this . . .

T-SB-0111-14 : HVAC - Heater Inoperative (pdf)



Referring to ddoxey's pictures, I've got a couple of thoughts on working with a blown 40A, 400v fuse inside the DC-DC Converter.

1) It looks possible to cut an access hatch hole in the cover on the end of the case, to service the fuse without fighting the glue. Tricky part: preventing swarf from migrating to anywhere inside. I've done this kind of work before, it can be done but it's best to have practice before working on expensive parts.

2) It looks possible to externally bypass that fuse altogether, installing an external weatherproof, HV fuse holder to feed the Denso heater. I haven't found a suitable weatherproof fuse holder for 14mm x 51mm ferrule fuses.*

There seem to be quite a few people selling the Tesla version of this with "fuse replaced" indicated, so breaking the adhesive seal and later re-gluing seems to be viable for a lot of people.

[later]

* According to this post, the later Teslas -- after about Jan2014 -- moved these fuses out of the DC-DC Converter into its own fuse holder: forward junction box.

The cabin heater usually works, or it doesn't. No in between. Are you really in Panama with the Rav4 EV?

Joined the club, 2nd owner at 33Kmi, 2013. Not sure what I can add to this post that'd be helpful. Shipping parts takes 3-5d but if they get this 3hr job done when they arrive, car is at dealer for 1 week. Practice makes perfect, LOL. Toy extended warranty will take fees & 5d car rental (except gas & $2/d). Planned on bringing EV to car show Sat but will bring PHEV instead; still looking forward to meeting the sole other RAV4EV owner in MA then.

$5,400 list price is just crazy for this repair. This is the reason mine was traded in.

Tesla later moved the fuses to a separate junction box, and the DC-DC didn't have to be replaced to get the fuses replaced. We're saddled with the older design.

And, still, the fuses can be replaced, it's just labor. $5400 is new parts, everything replaced, but I will guess that having both the heater and DC-DC repaired by QCP is a lot less than half that.

Here, we refer to our Model 3 as a "beta car", because while Tesla gets a lot of things right, they also get things wrong, and our RAV4s inherit that same philosophy. We're early adopters and suffering the consequences.

I'm still very happy to have my RA4 EV. Well, once it gets shipped back from Auburn, Calif.

I installed a JdeMO™ on a RAV4 EV in eastern Massachusetts. That car was repossessed, and the car was auctioned from Toyota Financial.