Installed two new 14-50 outlets!

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Ferdball

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
67
Location
San Diego
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Installing two new 14-50 outlets!

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Previous installation of JuiceBox next to dryer 10-30 outlet.

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Drywall opened behind breaker panel.

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I asked the electrician to install a mechanical timer.

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Romex 6 guage, 3 conductor

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Installed!

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On at midnight, off at 6am.

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The outlet location is behind a cabinet. So, I opened up the back and mounted the JuiceBox.

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Just saw this and noticed nobody has commented. Nice work! Two are always better than one. :mrgreen:

My only comment is relevant if you are enrolling in the CPUC PEV Submetering Pilot and thereby are waiting in the queue for another JB (UL approved). If so, those participating JBs will only have a short ~12" long AC input cord apparently due to EVSE safety regulations. As such, you will need a different mounting arrangement, or a heavy duty extension cord to reach one of your 14-50 outlets from further away.
 
You really don't want that timer to shut the power off while the car is actually charging. The car (and the EVSE) will see it as a power outage. The LEAF may log it as an error/fault. Doesn't the JuiceBox have a timer capability? If not, it's a big hole.
 
The JuiceBox does have a built-in timer capability, but you must have the "Premium" or fully optioned Basic model for that to be included. Works GREAT!
 
davewill said:
You really don't want that timer to shut the power off while the car is actually charging. The car (and the EVSE) will see it as a power outage. The LEAF may log it as an error/fault. Doesn't the JuiceBox have a timer capability? If not, it's a big hole.
Are logs the only issue? If so, then I don't care. I have the low end charger. I could extend the turn off time though.

When I get a smart timer, I'll use the other outlet.
 
Dsinned said:
My only comment is relevant if you are enrolling in the CPUC PEV Submetering Pilot and thereby are waiting in the queue for another JB (UL approved). If so, those participating JBs will only have a short ~12" long AC input cord apparently due to EVSE safety regulations. As such, you will need a different mounting arrangement, or a heavy duty extension cord to reach one of your 14-50 outlets from further away.
Only 12", huh? I don't like how this one is mounted anyway, so it won't be a problem to re-mount.
 
Ferdball said:
Are logs the only issue? If so, then I don't care. I have the low end charger. I could extend the turn off time though.

When I get a smart timer, I'll use the other outlet.
AFAIK, we're not talking about actual damage, although I could imagine the on board charger blowing and having Toyota try to blame it on the the timer cutting off power. Extending the timer so that the charge is guaranteed to be done before timer cut off would do the trick. I do exactly that with my wife's PIP. The timer runs from midnight to 6AM. The car finishes in 1.5 hrs. So the car is all done well before the timer cuts off. Start up isn't a problem because the EVSE takes a couple of seconds to boot up, then the car takes a few more seconds. There's no significant current draw when the timer turns on.
 
davewill said:
Ferdball said:
Are logs the only issue? If so, then I don't care. I have the low end charger. I could extend the turn off time though.

When I get a smart timer, I'll use the other outlet.
AFAIK, we're not talking about actual damage, although I could imagine the on board charger blowing and having Toyota try to blame it on the the timer cutting off power. Extending the timer so that the charge is guaranteed to be done before timer cut off would do the trick. I do exactly that with my wife's PIP. The timer runs from midnight to 6AM. The car finishes in 1.5 hrs. So the car is all done well before the timer cuts off. Start up isn't a problem because the EVSE takes a couple of seconds to boot up, then the car takes a few more seconds. There's no significant current draw when the timer turns on.

If your charger has the proximity signal extended through the cable, the only thing a timer has to interrupt is that proximity signal, That will sort of "disengage" the handle for the car , charging would stop. No sparks no errors. You could however drive away with the EV with the J1772 connected which would be bad (TM) . So the best thing is to actually switch the pilot signal in the J1772 connector to the right voltage. That would solve all things: no sparks, no errors, and the car won't start because it detects the J1772 connector plugged in.
But you would have to do some stuff to make that work.
 
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