Buying a Rav4 outside of CA

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In looking to sell a leased car, I was looking at the TFS website and it shows that I can buy my car for $30,664 after 11 months of ownership. I wonder if this is accurate? This seems like a way to buy the car and get all the Toyota and Federal incentives soon after purchase. Will sales tax then be added to this price?
 
Acevolt said:
In looking to sell a leased car, I was looking at the TFS website and it shows that I can buy my car for $30,664 after 11 months of ownership. I wonder if this is accurate? This seems like a way to buy the car and get all the Toyota and Federal incentives soon after purchase. Will sales tax then be added to this price?

Of course it will have sales tax. You are only paying a monthly "use" tax with the lease.
 
TonyWilliams said:
Acevolt said:
In looking to sell a leased car, I was looking at the TFS website and it shows that I can buy my car for $30,664 after 11 months of ownership. I wonder if this is accurate? This seems like a way to buy the car and get all the Toyota and Federal incentives soon after purchase. Will sales tax then be added to this price?

Of course it will have sales tax. You are only paying a monthly "use" tax with the lease.
In California an item can't be subject to both sales tax and use tax, only one or the other. If use tax is paid then there is no obligation to pay sales tax and vice versa. Also, in California you pay use tax to the state as the person who puts the item into service whereas sales tax is collected by the selling entity. So when Toyota is charging sales/use tax, that is seen by the BOE as a sales tax. Use tax is paid when you file your personal income taxes at the end of the year, or with your BOE filings directly if you happen to have a seller's permit.

When you buy out your car from TFS at the end of the term, you have already paid sales tax during the lease so you're only liable for sales tax on the residual/buyout. If you buy it out early you are essentially paying the entire rest of the term, plus the residual value. From what I can gather, the rest of the term in this buyout price DOES NOT include sales tax, so the State of California will expect you to pay sales tax to DMV upon transfer based on the buyout amount. The thing is, the big-picture tax amount will be the same if you pay it as part of the lease payments or in one lump sum upon buyout.

Also, fun fact: in California if you intend to sell your leased car to someone, you can buy it out and as long as the title is transferred to the third party buyer within 10 days, only that buyer is liable to pay tax. You, the lessee/seller are not required to pay taxes on it. Not sure how that works with an out of state sale, but here's the DMV page: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/reg_hdbk/ch11/ch11_20.htm
 
DevinL said:
TonyWilliams said:
Acevolt said:
In looking to sell a leased car, I was looking at the TFS website and it shows that I can buy my car for $30,664 after 11 months of ownership. I wonder if this is accurate? This seems like a way to buy the car and get all the Toyota and Federal incentives soon after purchase. Will sales tax then be added to this price?

Of course it will have sales tax. You are only paying a monthly "use" tax with the lease.

When you buy out your car from TFS at the end of the term, you have already paid sales tax during the lease so you're only liable for sales tax on the residual/buyout.

Exactly... both a use tax and a sales tax,
 
I asked Dianne about TFS finance and rebate eligibility for prospective out of state buyers, and this is what I gleaned from the conversation:

1) Non-Cali buyers are not eligible for TFS 0% APR financing as promoted on buyatoyota.com after one plugs in a Cali zip code, so obtaining 3rd party financing would be necessary. See Digital Credit Union's 1.49% product for one example competitive offering that would be negligibly more expensive.

2) The Toyota $2500 rebate could potentially be applied for and awarded even when divorced from the TFS financing as above.

3) "My cars are $49688 regardless of lease or buy."
 
THIS:
2) The Toyota $2500 rebate could potentially be applied for and awarded even when divorced from the TFS financing as above.
Is a customer rebate that is applied for when you're not using the TFS financing.
 
Just closed the deal and our Rav4 is being shipped to Illinois this weekend! We happen to have a 50A breaker and a Nema 10-50 in our garage. The previous tenants owned a kiln. We are not sure what charger to get because we are in this home temporarily. It seems we should go with the Jesla. But still looking for a cheaper option.
 
I have one for sale on eBay. It's a dual voltage, adjustable amperage, portable evse for only $560. I'm not looking to get rich. I just wanted to put it up for sale to benefit the community. I can always build myself another one.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=161395725014
 
Graphicsgirl said:
We are not sure what charger to get because we are in this home temporarily. It seems we should go with the Jesla. But still looking for a cheaper option.


Congrats on your car, and the nerve to ship it out-of-state!!!

http://shop.quickchargepower.com/JESLA-is-THE-40-amp-J1772-portable-charging-solution-JESLA.htm

JELSA ships with NEMA 14-50 and NEMA 5-15 plugs. Additionally, you may want to buy the correct plug for your dryer (handy for visiting friends or relatives at their house) or for motel air conditioners:

......................................................VOLTS / AMPS.......kW
*NEMA 5-15 .......Standard Outlet.. 120 V / 12 A...... 1.4 kW
NEMA 5-20 ...... Motel air conditioner 120/16A....... 1.9 kW
NEMA 10-30......Older Dryers...... 240 V / 24 A...... 5.8 kW
NEMA 14-30......Newer Dryers..... 240 V / 24 A...... 5.8 kW
*NEMA 14-50......RV Parks ........... 240 V / 40 A...... 9.6 kW

http://shop.quickchargepower.com/searchquick-submit.sc?keywords=adapter

We no longer have a NEMA 6-50 plug, but that can be easily resolved by swapping your NEMA 6-50 outlet for a NEMA 14-50 (see link below). This will require that you either add a neutral wire of that you very clearly mark this outlet "240 VOLT ONLY, EV CHARGING ONLY". That is not code, but it will prevent somebody from plugging in a motor home which requires 120 volts from the 14-50 outlet.

The other option is to remove the neutral pin from the 14-50 plug. That is perfectly safe, since the JELSA doesn't use 120 volts and 240 volts at the same time.

Get a 50 amp circuit installed at your charging location with a NEMA 14-50R receptacle. We sell the receptacle here for $5.99:

http://shop.quickchargepower.com/14-50R-Outlet-14-50R.htm
 
Kohler Controller said:
I thought you had to have a CA address to lease one of these. No complications leasing to an out-of-stater?


I know this should be obvious, but if you bought new, please don't get a felony fraud conviction for applying for the California $2500 rebate when you don't qualify as an out-of-state resident. Obviously, you couldn't lease out-of-state without committing fraud, or the dealer committing fraud.

If a dealer knowingly leased or sold a new car to you out-of-state, they would be in BIG trouble. Toyota USA could get into a fraud situation with California Air Resources Board (CARB) when they report the sale as in-state for Zero Emission Vehicle (ZEV) compliance, WHICH IS THE ONLY REASON THEY PRODUCED THIS CAR.

But, the $7500 federal tax credit works everywhere in the USA.

If you bought used, none of the above would apply.



http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/f8936.pdf
Internal Revenue Service ... Use this form to claim the credit for certain plug-in electric vehicles. .... For tax years beginning after 2008, use Form 8936.
 
Thank you for the information. We bought used so no benefits but only 5,800 miles on it. Cost was about 30k.

My crazy husband thinks he can use solar panels to charge batteries in the garage to supplement the wall charging:
Solar Panel -> Batteries -> inverter -> plug to car

Should I tell him he's nuts?
 
Graphicsgirl,
Unless there's an overriding reason to get a battery backup system, it's far more efficient, and far less expensive to have a PV system simply feed into your service panel (breaker panel.) Battery backup systems are about 20% less efficient, and cost 20% more... or more.

Another reason to avoid batteries is that if you're like most EV owners, you'll mostly be charging at night when there is no sunlight. Worst case scenario is 0-full, which is about 40 kWh worth of juice. A battery backup system to deliver that is significant in size. Battery banks for solar can usually only be discharged to about 50% in order to protect it, and to extend the life of the batteries.

Now, if you DO have the need or desire for a battery backup system, I'd still say have it wired up to a critical loads' sub-panel that other important circuits are wired to: refrigerator maybe, freezer, computers, or whatever is most important during a power outage.

A PV system is a GREAT addition to your home, so DO consider getting one.
 
Graphicsgirl said:
Thank you for the information. We bought used so no benefits but only 5,800 miles on it. Cost was about 30k.

My crazy husband thinks he can use solar panels to charge batteries in the garage to supplement the wall charging:
Solar Panel -> Batteries -> inverter -> plug to car

Should I tell him he's nuts?
Just get a normal system to feed the grid.
 
Graphicsgirl said:
Thank you for the information. We bought used so no benefits but only 5,800 miles on it. Cost was about 30k.

My crazy husband thinks he can use solar panels to charge batteries in the garage to supplement the wall charging:
Solar Panel -> Batteries -> inverter -> plug to car

Should I tell him he's nuts?
Yes, he's crazy. Until there are devices that can do straight DC to DC charging, it's not worth it for charging the car. Like someone else said, if you put the value on having power during a utility outage, you can justify the cost of the batteries and inverters. However, it's still cheaper and easier to buy small UPS units and a standby generator for that case.
 
Dianne suggested Tradewinds Transport. The contact there is Val Esqueda.

[email protected]
cell 909-200-9411

I think it was $1375 total and took about 12 days total...it was pretty quick once they had the transport loaded and it left CA.

If you get your Entunes info you can find the car by turning on the climate control and then turning it off and checking the location. Pretty neat to see it moving cross country.

Mike
 
Dianne gave me the contact info for Steve. I think his company is called autoshippers. I live 2 hours from Mike, who comment previously, and I had my car in about 4 days and it only cost me $1090. I lucked out and got a "team". Which means there are two guys, in this case brothers, who drive straight across without stopping. In my case I wouldve had it in 3 days but there was an asshole dealer who refused to stay 30 minutes late to give them the keys for a lame ass Corvette. Because of that they had to stay overnight and pick it up like 10 hours later.
 
This thread is right on the mark for our current situation. Our legacy Rav4EVs are getting tired. My wife's is losing range and mine is disabled at the moment for a failed thermal sensor. It's time we moved into the current century by buying a newer model.

I've been putting out feelers and found three that fit our requirements and perhaps also the requirements about which I've read, regarding the extended warranty.

I understand from my reading that if the Rav4EV has fewer than 36,000 miles, it qualifies for the buyer to purchase an extended warranty. The first dealer I've contacted tells me that the vehicle has to be shipped to California (from our home in FL) for warranty repairs. The other part of the phone message appears to indicate that the dealer is not familiar with Toyota's warranty program. I'm certainly not familiar with it either and had hoped the dealer would do the necessary research to verify the program.

I've also read that it is not required to ship the vehicle to CA for warranty repairs.

Can anyone offer officially recognized links regarding both the requirements and restrictions on the extended warranty and also on the location/shipping for warranty repair situations?
 
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