Is My 12V Battery Dying

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Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
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Over the last few days, my RAV has been slow to start in the morning. I sometimes have to push the button a few times - the first few times, I'll get some clicks and blinking lights. Then it's fine the rest of the day until the next morning. Should I be thinking about a new 12V battery?
 
YES!!!!! Don't try to run the car anymore with this battery. Disconnect it ASAP and get the recommended Bosch AGM replacement. There have been numerous expensive repairs reported here caused by a weak 12v battery.
 
Thanks, guys. Good thing I haven't put my Subaru up for sale yet! I went over to the closest auto parts store. They didn't have the Bosch, but they set me up with a Duralast Platinum, which is apparently some sort of AGM battery, too.

I got it all hooked up, pushed the button and it did some sort of reset/reboot (I forget exactly what it said on the display, but everything also lit up on the dash). Once that was finished, I pushed the starter again and it went right on. Everything sound OK? I'm also going to check this thread: http://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1649
 
wanderingjustin said:
Thanks, guys. Good thing I haven't put my Subaru up for sale yet! I went over to the closest auto parts store. They didn't have the Bosch, but they set me up with a Duralast Platinum, which is apparently some sort of AGM battery, too.

I got it all hooked up, pushed the button and it did some sort of reset/reboot (I forget exactly what it said on the display, but everything also lit up on the dash). Once that was finished, I pushed the starter again and it went right on. Everything sound OK? I'm also going to check this thread: http://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1649
Yes, the infotainment has to initialize after you disconnect the 12V, so what you saw is probably completely normal. A second press of the start button is always required in that situation.
 
miimura said:
wanderingjustin said:
Thanks, guys. Good thing I haven't put my Subaru up for sale yet! I went over to the closest auto parts store. They didn't have the Bosch, but they set me up with a Duralast Platinum, which is apparently some sort of AGM battery, too.

I got it all hooked up, pushed the button and it did some sort of reset/reboot (I forget exactly what it said on the display, but everything also lit up on the dash). Once that was finished, I pushed the starter again and it went right on. Everything sound OK? I'm also going to check this thread: http://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1649
Yes, the infotainment has to initialize after you disconnect the 12V, so what you saw is probably completely normal. A second press of the start button is always required in that situation.

Thank you! This morning, it started right up with no hesitation. The only thing that's weird is that the predicted range when using A/C has fall considerably. For example, if I had 90 miles of range w/o AC previously, the display would show 85 miles on Eco Low. Now it's more like a 15-mile difference instead of 5.
 
wanderingjustin said:
Thank you! This morning, it started right up with no hesitation. The only thing that's weird is that the predicted range when using A/C has fall considerably. For example, if I had 90 miles of range w/o AC previously, the display would show 85 miles on Eco Low. Now it's more like a 15-mile difference instead of 5.
It has to relearn how much the climate control affects range. It will settle back into the usual behavior over a week or so.
 
Well... I'm a late comer... in many ways...
I got the 2014 model only a year ago (end of lease)
Today the car did not start. Same symptoms described here: No start, "check air bag", "Check EV system", Dim cabin lights.
I had the car jumped and was able to drive home.

The Check EV system warning message did not clear.

When I got home I checked the battery:
14V+ when on (so charging system seems to work).
12V when off...

I came to look for wisdom and after reading the battery threads I went back to check again. Battery down to 10V...
So I've taken out the battery... I'll find a replacement tomorrow.

Any advice or tips on what to do after replacing the battery once the error codes started?
I've read comments here and there that seem to suggest:
1. May need to clear error codes. Any ideas how?
2. May cause some real damage to the computer. *sigh*
3. Some procedure to reinstall the battery beyond boot and wait?


For the people who have gone past the "battery failed and got lots of error codes"
Any specific advice or stories on how to solve if either one of those happen?
I'm in Seattle, so if I have to get to a Toyota tech I'd have to start working on getting a tech scheduled...

thanks!

Next day update: Got an Optima Group 35 as recommended the next morning. The car started up fine but the "Check EV system" light did not go away.
I'm now starting the saga of getting in touch with Toyota to see when a tech can take a look at it.
The car drives normally, even at 40mph. So hopefully the battery holds and it's just a warning light (fingers crossed)

started new thread over here:
http://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2247
 
I finally bit the bullet and replaced my 12v battery with the Bosch AGM ($179 if you order online and pick up in store at Pep Boys, the battery was in stock 4 year warranty).

The battery was slightly *taller* than the prior battery so i had to use a longer battery stay (the threaded rod on the back of the battery). Fortunately i had one laying around out of a pair i'd bought when i had this same problem on a different car. It needed to be about 1/2 inch longer. I could've taken the plastic battery tray out from under the battery though to make it fit if needed. I did spring for the $1.70 "battery terminal grease" (which is probably a scam) and put it on the mating surfaces on the terminals at the time i installed the battery.
 
n3ckf said:
I finally bit the bullet and replaced my 12v battery with the Bosch AGM ($179 if you order online and pick up in store at Pep Boys, the battery was in stock 4 year warranty).

The battery was slightly *taller* than the prior battery so i had to use a longer battery stay (the threaded rod on the back of the battery). Fortunately i had one laying around out of a pair i'd bought when i had this same problem on a different car. It needed to be about 1/2 inch longer. I could've taken the plastic battery tray out from under the battery though to make it fit if needed. I did spring for the $1.70 "battery terminal grease" (which is probably a scam) and put it on the mating surfaces on the terminals at the time i installed the battery.

The original threaded rod works... you missed the hole that it is designed to fit in.
 
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