2014 RAV4 EV won't charge

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jfletter

Active member
Joined
Feb 6, 2022
Messages
28
I removed the on-board charger to replace the two 50A fuses. After reassembly, I am getting a "Cntctr State" error message. Could it be that one or both charging contactor switches failed as well and that is why the fuses blew? Or could it be a kill switch that did not get reassembled correctly so the power is cut by the system? Being a newbie (learning as I go), I now realize I should have spent more time checking the critical components before reassembly. Does anyone have any suggestions about what to look for before I disassemble to get the on-board charger out again? I used the Toyota diagnostic software and here is what I believe to be the relevant diagnostic information.

Trouble Code: P312F
Contactor Cut OFF Relay Connect Request: ON
Contactor Cut OFF Relay Status: ON
Cause of READY ON Failure: Shift Oper
Cause of Forced Charge Cancel: Cntctr State

Here are some pic's of the unit and diag data.
Trouble Code: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtSKKmN-5msBg_YuSbTxIU4slgqFrA?e=CJ4A4r
Diag Data: https://1drv.ms/x/s!AtSKKmN-5msBg_Y8Taq8JvbxiYfHxg?e=fAl4el
Pic1: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtSKKmN-5msBg_Y6naCEDZZf-CVHrA?e=CYKw3d
Pic2: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtSKKmN-5msBg_Y3heMoQcDUFhLsRQ?e=CCCp82
Pic3: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtSKKmN-5msBg_YyxAkmRj8XSpF8Ew?e=yX81aI
 
Were the charger fuses indeed bad?

Unfortunately diagnostics from the Toyota side of things yield almost nothing of use: the P312F code simply means that the Tesla side of things has a problem, and the gateway is requesting the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL).

One thing that has bitten me before: there's a high voltage interlock loop that includes the charger, and any interruption of this closed loop will keep the contactors from turning on. On the charger, there's a jumper between two terminals that completes this loop, that is located between the AC input and the DC output connector. Leaving this jumper off will cause a problem. It's also possible that while you had the unit apart for service that you may have disturbed an internal connection that is part of this circuit. Unplug the connector on the driver's side and check for continuity between pins 3 & 9 on the charger.
 
I assume that you also pulled the HV Service Plug under the front passenger seat before pulling the charger from the car. Make sure that it is properly re-installed. There is also a fuse inside that plug. You should also check its resistance.
 
jfletter said:
I removed the on-board charger to replace the two 50A fuses. After reassembly, I am getting a "Cntctr State" error message. Could it be that one or both charging contactor switches failed as well and that is why the fuses blew? Or could it be a kill switch that did not get reassembled correctly so the power is cut by the system? Being a newbie (learning as I go), I now realize I should have spent more time checking the critical components before reassembly. Does anyone have any suggestions about what to look for before I disassemble to get the on-board charger out again? I used the Toyota diagnostic software and here is what I believe to be the relevant diagnostic information.
Trouble Code: P312F...
"Guessing" is not the best way to "treat"/repair...
First, you need to make a diagnosis of Tesla systems * (read codes, collect and analyze live data with IGN ON, Ready and Charge), state all the external signs of a malfunction.
And after analyzing the results, make a final diagnosis.

Remote diagnostics of the Tesla systems of this car (Date of First Use: 09/26/2014 Production Date: 06/22/2014) is available with this program
2021.png

For example,
https://alflash.com.ua/phpBB2/download/file.php?id=3349
file.php


miimura said:
I assume that you also pulled the HV Service Plug under the front passenger seat before pulling the charger from the car. Make sure that it is properly re-installed. There is also a fuse inside that plug. You should also check its resistance.
+
https://youtu.be/hZk9wLK3QI4
 
miimura said:
I assume that you also pulled the HV Service Plug under the front passenger seat before pulling the charger from the car. Make sure that it is properly re-installed. There is also a fuse inside that plug. You should also check its resistance.

I did pull the HV plug prior to doing any high voltage work on the car. I will check the plug fuse and let you know if I find anything. Thank you for the info.
 
hokiematt said:
Were the charger fuses indeed bad?

Unfortunately diagnostics from the Toyota side of things yield almost nothing of use: the P312F code simply means that the Tesla side of things has a problem, and the gateway is requesting the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL).

One thing that has bitten me before: there's a high voltage interlock loop that includes the charger, and any interruption of this closed loop will keep the contactors from turning on. On the charger, there's a jumper between two terminals that completes this loop, that is located between the AC input and the DC output connector. Leaving this jumper off will cause a problem. It's also possible that while you had the unit apart for service that you may have disturbed an internal connection that is part of this circuit. Unplug the connector on the driver's side and check for continuity between pins 3 & 9 on the charger.

I did make sure to replace the interlock loop. I will check continuity between pin 3 & 9. Thank you for the suggestion. I tried not to disturb anything inside the on-board charger except removing the screws so I could take the shroud off to replace the two blow 50A fuses. I saw what I think is a magnetic cut off switch to cut power when the lid is removed and made sure I replaced the lid in the same orientation. I am not sure what other internal connection I may have disturbed.
 
alflash said:
jfletter said:
I removed the on-board charger to replace the two 50A fuses. After reassembly, I am getting a "Cntctr State" error message. Could it be that one or both charging contactor switches failed as well and that is why the fuses blew? Or could it be a kill switch that did not get reassembled correctly so the power is cut by the system? Being a newbie (learning as I go), I now realize I should have spent more time checking the critical components before reassembly. Does anyone have any suggestions about what to look for before I disassemble to get the on-board charger out again? I used the Toyota diagnostic software and here is what I believe to be the relevant diagnostic information.
Trouble Code: P312F...
"Guessing" is not the best way to "treat"/repair...
First, you need to make a diagnosis of Tesla systems * (read codes, collect and analyze live data with IGN ON, Ready and Charge), state all the external signs of a malfunction.
And after analyzing the results, make a final diagnosis.

Remote diagnostics of the Tesla systems of this car (Date of First Use: 09/26/2014 Production Date: 06/22/2014) is available with this program
2021.png

For example,
https://alflash.com.ua/phpBB2/download/file.php?id=3349
file.php


miimura said:
I assume that you also pulled the HV Service Plug under the front passenger seat before pulling the charger from the car. Make sure that it is properly re-installed. There is also a fuse inside that plug. You should also check its resistance.
+
https://youtu.be/hZk9wLK3QI4

Thank you. I am having trouble locating the Tesla Diagnostic software. Or are you saying that RAV4EV can communicate with Tesla's remote diagnostic system? I did pull the HV service plug and will double check that I in cleaning inserted and also check the plug's fuse. Thank you for the advice.
 
jfletter said:
... I am having trouble locating the Tesla Diagnostic software. Or are you saying that RAV4EV can communicate with Tesla's remote diagnostic system? ...
Remote diagnostics of RAV4EV Tesla systems (three different methods) has been available since 2019 :)
 
Ok, partial success and a really stupid trip up.

I was checking the HV plug as everyone suggested and noticed that the one of the pins was bent. I checked the plug and something had dropped over the pin receptacle preventing the pin for connecting when installed. After carefully removing the object and bending the pins back, I reinstalled the plug. Also, I checked the plug resistance and it seemed fine.

I then used TechStream to clear the P312F error and it went away. I plugged the charge cable in, turned off the car and it started charging. Less than a minute later charging stopped. When I checked the problem it was another P312F error. I had to top of the battery coolant because it had pumped down.

A new message on the dash said "Check Power Steering System".

I removed the charge cable, turned the car off then back on. The P312F error cleared again without coming back.

When I tried to charge again, I noticed that the charger would click on and off in about 5 to 10 second intervals several times until charging would stop. Of course the P312F error reappeared.

If no one has suggestion, I will equipment that equipment that alflash is suggesting to we can get to the Tesla diagnostics.

Thanks again everyone and I appreciate any more suggest on how to further narrow down the problem. The new "Check Power Steering System" error is, of course, concerning but it hadn't popped up before I starting having these problems.
 
alflash said:
jfletter said:
... I am having trouble locating the Tesla Diagnostic software. Or are you saying that RAV4EV can communicate with Tesla's remote diagnostic system? ...
Remote diagnostics of RAV4EV Tesla systems (three different methods) has been available since 2019 :)

alflash, I will have the parts I need to give you remote access to my RAV today. I need to solder the CAT5 cable to the ODB2 connector, configure my router, and schedule time with your team. I had filled out your online form a month or two back but did not get a reply. What is the best way to communicate, I assume not on this forum.
 
jfletter said:
...alflash, I will have the parts I need to give you remote access to my RAV today. I need to solder the CAT5 cable to the ODB2 connector, configure my router, and schedule time with your team. I had filled out your online form a month or two back but did not get a reply. What is the best way to communicate, I assume not on this forum.
What is the last four digits of the VIN for this vehicle?

Note. Setting up a Mikrotik router for remote diagnostics is completely different from setting up a regular router for Internet access.
 
alflash said:
jfletter said:
...alflash, I will have the parts I need to give you remote access to my RAV today. I need to solder the CAT5 cable to the ODB2 connector, configure my router, and schedule time with your team. I had filled out your online form a month or two back but did not get a reply. What is the best way to communicate, I assume not on this forum.
What is the last four digits of the VIN for this vehicle?

Note. Setting up a Mikrotik router for remote diagnostics is completely different from setting up a regular router for Internet access.

VIN: 3141

I was hoping to use one of my old routers. It is running and ready for routing table updates to link you to the RAV. I am not sure what a Mirotik router does that a standard Cisco or other router does not do.
 
jfletter said:
alflash said:
jfletter said:
...alflash, I will have the parts I need to give you remote access to my RAV today. I need to solder the CAT5 cable to the ODB2 connector, configure my router, and schedule time with your team. I had filled out your online form a month or two back but did not get a reply. What is the best way to communicate, I assume not on this forum.
... Note. Setting up a Mikrotik router for remote diagnostics is completely different from setting up a regular router for Internet access.
...I was hoping to use one of my old routers. It is running and ready for routing table updates to link you to the RAV. I am not sure what a Mirotik router does that a standard Cisco or other router does not do.
Mikrotik hardware proprietary protocols are used to configure for remote diagnostics, which are not supported by other hardware manufacturers. And Mikrotik equipment was chosen as the most inexpensive hardware solution for organizing the necessary network connection.
Of course, this can be arranged for cisco, hp enterprise class equipment (not SOHO), which costs much more. In addition, my technical support is a specialist who is certified by Mikrotik, not Cisco.
 
alflash said:
Mikrotik hardware proprietary protocols are used to configure for remote diagnostics, which are not supported by other hardware manufacturers. And Mikrotik equipment was chosen as the most inexpensive hardware solution for organizing the necessary network connection.

MPLS?
Mikrotik certainly has the best price for a router that supports MPLS, at least from what I've seen.
 
asavage said:
alflash said:
Mikrotik hardware proprietary protocols are used to configure for remote diagnostics, which are not supported by other hardware manufacturers. And Mikrotik equipment was chosen as the most inexpensive hardware solution for organizing the necessary network connection.

MPLS?
Mikrotik certainly has the best price for a router that supports MPLS, at least from what I've seen.

Just to confirm, there cheapest router here will work since it has MPLS capability?
https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750r2
 
jfletter said:
asavage said:
alflash said:
Mikrotik hardware proprietary protocols are used to configure for remote diagnostics, which are not supported by other hardware manufacturers. And Mikrotik equipment was chosen as the most inexpensive hardware solution for organizing the necessary network connection.

MPLS?
Mikrotik certainly has the best price for a router that supports MPLS, at least from what I've seen.

Just to confirm, there cheapest router here will work since it has MPLS capability?
https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750r2

This wireless AP states that it includes RouterOS so maybe it has MPLS. If it will work then I would rather get a unit with 100/1000 ethernet and 802.11 wifi.
https://mikrotik.com/product/RB941-2nD#fndtn-downloads
 
jfletter said:
... This wireless AP states that it includes RouterOS so maybe it has MPLS. If it will work then I would rather get a unit with 100/1000 ethernet and 802.11 wifi.
https://mikrotik.com/product/RB941-2nD#fndtn-downloads
To implement remote diagnostics using this method
remote.gif

it is enough to buy a simple and cheap RB941-2nD router (w/ Wi-Fi) in which need to set up the EoIP tunnel.

MPLS is used in another method of remote diagnostics using this selfmade device
file.php


Update. Alternative ways of communication are indicated in this web page
https://alflash.com.ua/service/rav4ev-precheck-customize-list-2/
 
alflash said:
jfletter said:
... This wireless AP states that it includes RouterOS so maybe it has MPLS. If it will work then I would rather get a unit with 100/1000 ethernet and 802.11 wifi.
https://mikrotik.com/product/RB941-2nD#fndtn-downloads
To implement remote diagnostics using this method
remote.gif

it is enough to buy a simple and cheap RB941-2nD router (w/ Wi-Fi) in which need to set up the EoIP tunnel.

Update. Alternative ways of communication are indicated in this web page
https://alflash.com.ua/service/rav4ev-precheck-customize-list-2/

OK, I believe everything is set for remote connection to the Telsa ECU. The DCL3 cable is connected to the Mikrotik HP Lite (am seeing ECU MAC address) which is connected to the internet router. I have not configured the MikroTik since I believe you want to do that. If you send me the config information or a config file for the MikroTik then I can take care of that. From your messages or website, I believe you want to control a PC using Team Viewer. I have not downloaded Team Viewer yet.
 
Teamviewer (or Ammyy Admin) program are used only ONCE and only to configure the router (for example, EoIP protocols) by connecting it to your laptop.
The Remote Desktop Access procedure is NOT REQUIRED to remotely diagnose your RAV4EV.
 
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