Coolant Delete

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Hello, Rakesh. Bouncing off of what asavage said. It really depends, and without a proper photo of the speed sensor.
20240917_112612.jpg

Here is the speed sensor area. The speed sensor is clean. I forgot to take the picture of colorless moisture before I wiped it with a rag a week ago. Since then I don't see any more moisture on it.
 
Thanks for the answer!
Mini-question. Do I understand correctly that you do not rewind the stator?
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/stat2.jpg
stat2.jpg
 
You are correct, we do not rewind the stator. As you and I know that is a whole different beast, especially when it comes to labor hours. Luckily for us here at Konduit EV, we have a few stators in good health that we can use if a replacement is needed. If stators become scarce then we would look at the alternative method of rewinding the stators but at the moment it just isn't feasible. Im glad to answer your questions. Keep them up if you have any more!

Phone # (760) 798 0342

1315 Hotspring Way Suite 102
Vista California
92081

Jacob Shellnutt
Konduit Ev
Co Owner and Technician
 
View attachment 826

Here is the speed sensor area. The speed sensor is clean. I forgot to take the picture of colorless moisture before I wiped it with a rag a week ago. Since then I don't see any more moisture on it.
Hey Rakesh! It looks pretty clean, I don't see any rust or corrosion at least in and around the speed sensor hole. I'd advise you not to drive the car as that will only exacerbate the problem and will cause even more coolant intrusion. Get that coolant delete that you have installed immediately. Coolant can (and will) leak past the seal even if you don't drive the vehicle once that seal has started leaking. Also i'd recommend you take a photo with the coolant manifold taken off and posting it to this thread, so we can see how it looks at least just right by the speed sensor gear.

Phone # (760) 798 0342

1315 Hotspring Way Suite 102
Vista California
92081

Jacob Shellnutt
Konduit Ev
Co Owner and Technician
 
If your reluctor chamber has no vent hole (and it appears that it doesn't), then you have a better chance of coolant not having migrated to the stator cavity; with no vent, it can only get there via the outer rotor bearing -- coolant migrates through its seals -- which if compromised is relatively easily replaced, though the LDU does have to be dropped enough to pull the rotor cap off (see my LDU Special Disassembly Tools post) and to provide clearance for a bearing puller .

If you don't have the original rotor bearings -- which are steel -- and have a Reman or rebuilt LDU, the hybrid bearings seem to have good service life. The original rotor bearings suffered low service life (in general: exceptions do exist) due to the poor service life of the original Aegis rings ("brushes") that were supposed to drain stray induced rotor currents to chassis ground, but didn't in a lot of cases. But coolant in either of them doesn't work well, in any case!
 
Hello Alflash, I apologize for the delayed response. I'm stretched thin at the moment but would like to provide those photos I promised you. As expected, just about everything is kaput. The inverter board is corroded beyond repair and the connector board has a small amount of delamination with corrosion underneath the dielectric compound used to encapsulate the board. The stator also has zero isolation, so the diagnosis is that which we all suspected. It is yet another dead LDU, total loss except for the gear set.
Phone # (760) 798 0342
1315 Hotspring Way Suite 102
Vista California
92081
Jacob Shellnutt
Konduit Ev
Co Owner and Technician
Thanks for info!

Excuse me, to the questions.
Is this the inverter "brains" board of that vehicle from your video with the G48 liquid waterfall?
What device do you use to check the insulation resistance between the stator windings and its housing?
Please show a photo of the inner surface of the side cover of the motor.
 
Good Morning Alflash. Yes this is the same motor the video with the coolant pouring out of the inverter housing. Oddly enough, the contactors would still click on but would immediately click off and take the car out of ready. Before I drained all of the G48 and saw it coming out of the inverter, I thought the motor would still be salvageable purely because of the contactor click. Regarding the device used to test isolation in the stator, we use the Klein tool part number ET600, set at 500v. Also here are some photos of the side cover.
 

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Good Morning Alflash. Yes this is the same motor the video with the coolant pouring out of the inverter housing. Oddly enough, the contactors would still click on but would immediately click off and take the car out of ready. Before I drained all of the G48 and saw it coming out of the inverter, I thought the motor would still be salvageable purely because of the contactor click. Regarding the device used to test isolation in the stator, we use the Klein tool part number ET600, set at 500v. Also here are some photos of the side cover.
Thanks for answer!
As I understand it, the car was in a faulty condition for a long time. Why are there no such traces of liquid in the stator on the side cover?
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/side_covert.jpg
side_covert.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/madlen.jpg
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/stat3.jpg

Am I right in seeing that this engine did not have such a brush to protect the bearings from electrical erosion due to high-frequency interference?
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/_2041s.jpg
_2041s.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/brush_.jpg
brush_.jpg
 
Vlad, the rotor cap that you showed above look as if the coolant was leaking, then somebody was topping up with plain water. That corrosion does not look like typical corrosion from coolant alone -- the coolant provides some corrosion protection.

Or, perhaps, yours was sitting with coolant leaked for many years?
 
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