“Charging Malfunction- check external power supply”

[DustBunny]

Hello! I have a 2014, 110k on it and usual range about 110 miles. This warning started very intermittently, I would plug it in at night and it would start charging, have a series of clicks and resets and then stop charging, and then restart charging a few minutes later and be good. At first I thought it was a breaker tripping in the house or something with the charger, investigated those and all good. I then assumed some 12v malarkey, replaced that battery and no change. I can no longer finesse it into charging; I have an appointment with a local ‘EV specialist’ but I’m a little suspect… I feel like this may be the charging port? Anyone else experienced this, and how bad a repair is that to swap out?
I am in Arizona so I can tow to CA, if needed.

 

[hokiematt]

This error is usually a result of too much voltage drop occurring while the system is trying to charge. Voltage drop is caused by resistance, and resistance shows itself as heat. Does your charger nozzle/vehicle inlet get hot while charging? How about the wall plug for your EVSE? Pull the plug (assuming it's not hardwired) and look for discoloration on any of the terminals. Multiple users have had cheap outlets melt and stop working as a result of poor materials and installation. Finally it could also be an internal issue with either your EVSE or the on-board charger. The first step should be trying to charge from known good EVSE, like a public charger that has good ratings on Plugshare.

 

[alflash]

In order not to guess, you need to read the fault codes and analyze the data of the Tesla system during an unsuccessful charging attempt. This will allow you to identify/localize the cause of the fault (onboard charger or charger port or wires and connectors between them).
Checking the resistances between the contacts of the charging port with a simple ohmmeter can also be useful.
For example, as show in https://www.myrav4ev.com/threads/another-doa-rav-time-to-troubleshoot-seems-obc-fuses-are-fine.2635/
and in

 

[asavage]

You didn't provide any info on which EVSE you're using at home, or your home circuit's capacity. Matt gave good advice above. If possible change one variable: charge somewhere else. Using your Toyota-supplied 120v EVSE, or someone else's EVSE (anyone's, or public). Symptom change?

I have a 2014 … I feel like this may be the charging port? Anyone else experienced this, and how bad a repair is that to swap out?

Separately, there haven't been a lot of charge port failures reported here, other than when charging using the terrible early Blink nozzles that melted into the charge port, and those reports were mostly a decade ago. I wouldn't condemn the charge port as a first choice. Fortunately for you, if the charge port does need replacement, you have one of the later models where this can be done entirely at the rear fenderwell, as it electrically disconnects easily once the tire and protection panel has been removed.

The earlier models didn't have that disconnect, so to replace the charge port meant dropping the battery pack

Pictures are here.

Finally, if you charge at the RAV4 EV's full OBC capacity of 40A, be aware than not all legacy "nozzles" can actually handle that current long term; see my tale of QC Charge's "40 A Max" nozzle melting down in my driveway (as well as rusting).

 

[asavage]

In order not to guess, you need to read the fault codes and analyze the data of the Tesla system during an unsuccessful charging attempt.

Following on to this, there's a diagnostic socket at the Tesla Gateway module, located at the left rear of the cargo area, behind a plastic panel. It's user-accessible without tools. To use this socket, you need both a special cable, and special software. The software is kind of crap, but it's all we have.

But you might do some guessing first, and see how far you can get.

 

[alflash]

Following on to this, there's a diagnostic socket at the Tesla Gateway module, located at the left rear of the cargo area, behind a plastic panel. It's user-accessible without tools. To use this socket, you need both a special cable, and special software. The software is kind of crap, but it's all we have.

But you might do some guessing first, and see how far you can get.

Location of the diagnostic connector of the Tesla system and its gateway unit
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/4539.jpg

Some causes of charging failure
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/photo41.jpg

https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/port2.jpg

 

[alflash]

p.s.
And one more simple but necessary check with the negative 12V battery disconnected.
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/resistor_check.jpg