Check EV System warning message

[Kohler Controller]

The problem totally goes away if I don't use the AC for more then 2 days. Therefore I suspect it may be related to water condensation from using the AC. The water condensation affect some internal hardware, causing it to temporarily malfunction. The hardware may be protected from external water (rain), but not from the water coming from condensation of using AC.

I notice the A/C line runs right above the motor/compressor unit, causing the condensation from the tube to fall directly on itself. Of course this aids in cooling the A/C motor but doesn't help the wiring at all. I was contemplating adding a small aluminum tray to the underside of the foam wrapped tube to catch and divert the condensation like a gutter.

 

[Ntd]

I'm cross posting this here and on the new thread that I started yesterday about my engine shutting off and giving me the Check EV System screen while driving on the freeway.

It seems like this problem is widespread and it would be useful to know how many Rav4 EVs have been affected by this (and how seriously). I have created a Google Docs form to survey forum users about this error. Anyone who fills out the form can see the results-- if you don't have a Rav4 or haven't had the error, then you won't be asked most of the questions.

Here is the survey link: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1Ayjsmzm_IuMC76otWXNJpRDiGOt7WVKAyInYW_UUTog/viewform

Once you have filled out the survey, you can view the summarized results here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1Ayjsmzm_IuMC76otWXNJpRDiGOt7WVKAyInYW_UUTog/viewanalytics
And you can view the spreadsheet here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmMr7EqcMdZWdGRRN1NtZ0NpaVFuTGNwVmhMRFdEYkE&usp=sharing

If you want to modify your responses, you can either re-enter the survey (I'll eventually merge them) or PM me with edits.

Let's get some data on this!

Marc

 

[Khaihon]

Ntd,

I've already posted. How do I view the results again without posting a new form, thereby skewing the results?

 

[Ntd]

I added links to my original post leading to the summarized results and the full spreadsheet. Sorry about that.

 

[silverrav4ev]

Got the low batt (Lo) and car stall problem a couple of times. It was getting more and more frequent. So left the car with dealer for about a week. They fixed it by:

- Maintenance - Repair
1419 WT93
Computer, EV Gateway (also says Gateway ECU)

Got the car back yesterday. It is running fine today. Hope no more problem.

 

[jspearman]

I know this has been covered somewhere, but is the Gateway ECU a Toyota or Tesla part? I can't understand why there's not a recall yet.

 

[TonyWilliams]

I know this has been covered somewhere, but is the Gateway ECU a Toyota or Tesla part? I can't understand why there's not a recall yet.

Everything related to the EV system is Tesla, including the Gateway ECU. Toyota did the minor exterior body modifications (nose piece, different rear view mirrors, rear air "spoiler") and of course, left off the spare tire and roof rack.

Toyota also did the heater, which is why there are two separate coolant reservoirs. The pink one is Toyota coolant for the heater only, and the dark green one is G48 coolant for the Tesla drivetrain, charger, DC to DC, inverter, battery. There are actually two heaters on the car. One Toyota supplied one (Denso 6kW resistance) and another one supplied by Tesla for the battery heating using the G48 coolant.

It appears Toyota did all the dash "stuff"; the navigation screen is used in other Toyota/Lexus products. The dash display itself is likely all Toyota. Obviously, there is a lot of software that had to be written for both Toyota and Tesla.

Toyota also did the "reinforcement bar" on the bottom of the car to reinforce it for crash testing. It looks big and clunky because I'm sure that was the cheapest and quickest way to fix the problems.

Toyota also did the exhaust hanger mounts... oh, wait, we don't need those. But, if you ever decide to throw in the V6 oil burner, it shouldn't be that hard.

Toyota likely did the beefed up suspension, too. Power steering and brake boosters, probably Toyota. Air Conditioner pump, Toyota, since it's the cheapest answer to how to cool the cabin, and Tesla just taps into the system to borrow some cold refrigerant for the battery. Tesla uses a more expensive heat pump in their cars.

I'm hard pressed to find other modifications to the car. The wheels and interior have been in use since the 2009 model. Paint is the same as the oil burners from 2006 - 2012 maybe?

The charge port is likely just a Toyota purchased part from Yazaki, but I think Tesla physically builds the harness for it. Or Tesla could supply the whole thing from Yazaki (note: Tesla doesn't have Yazaki as a normal supplier, since they don't use J1772 on their cars... the prototype Rav4 EVs had Tesla Roadster connectors).

Let's see... the shifter is from the Prius. Anything I'm missing? The stuff that is just too bizarre for words, like the loud and distracting beeping in the car when you put it in reverse, but no noise outside to warn pedestrians; that's all Toyota. The fuel gauge that stops at 80%, Toyota. The low speed external "space ship noise maker sound" is obviously Toyota (again, from the Prius).

 

[waidy]

Tony Tony, who to blame for the radio operating mechanism? Just like my Model S, there is not an OFF button to turn off the radio. I have tried pressing the HOME button which turns off EVERYTHING, and by pressing "mode" button on the steering wheel to mute. But both won't just turn the radio off.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Tony Tony, who to blame for the radio operating mechanism? Just like my Model S, there is not an OFF button to turn off the radio.

Oh, I suspect that was all Toyota, but it could be that Tesla guys suggested the "no buttons" approach.

I definitely would install a volume and tuning knob. Press the volume knob for radio off/mute. Twist for volume. Intuitive and simple.

Tuning knob could be press for sources (AM, FM, SAT, EXT, etc) and twist for station.

 

[miimura]

Tony Tony, who to blame for the radio operating mechanism? Just like my Model S, there is not an OFF button to turn off the radio. I have tried pressing the HOME button which turns off EVERYTHING, and by pressing "mode" button on the steering wheel to mute. But both won't just turn the radio off.

Press the Home button and then touch the orange button at the lower left. That will turn off the audio but leave the rest of the NAV screen functions working.

Another hidden function is turning the NAV screen completely off. Home Button - Gear Button (at lower right) - Display (top right) - Screen Off. Touching the home button will turn it back on.

 

[jspearman]

Thanks for the thorough rundown, Tony. The only thing you might have missed are the outside mirrors from a Korean Camry.

As for a volume knob, Chevy nailed this on the Volt. It's in the center of their goofy plastic console and it's multifunctional. I almost always reach for it instead of using the one on the steering wheel. It's a natural place to reach and intuitive.

 

[cwerdna]

It appears Toyota did all the dash "stuff"; the navigation screen is used in other Toyota/Lexus products. The dash display itself is likely all Toyota. Obviously, there is a lot of software that had to be written for both Toyota and Tesla.
...
I'm hard pressed to find other modifications to the car. The wheels and interior have been in use since the 2009 model. Paint is the same as the oil burners from 2006 - 2012 maybe?

The charge port is likely just a Toyota purchased part from Yazaki, but I think Tesla physically builds the harness for it. Or Tesla could supply the whole thing from Yazaki (note: Tesla doesn't have Yazaki as a normal supplier, since they don't use J1772 on their cars... the prototype Rav4 EVs had Tesla Roadster connectors).

Let's see... the shifter is from the Prius. Anything I'm missing? The stuff that is just too bizarre for words, like the loud and distracting beeping in the car when you put it in reverse, but no noise outside to warn pedestrians; that's all Toyota. The fuel gauge that stops at 80%, Toyota. The low speed external "space ship noise maker sound" is obviously Toyota (again, from the Prius).

Yeah, the nav system very closely resembles that used on other recent Toyotas and Lexuses. However, they did diverge from what was shipping on Toyotas at the time by going w/capacitive buttons, for instance. The HVAC display doesn't look like other Toyotas of its time.

Now the Avalon has capacitive buttons.

I'm not sure who supplies the J1772 inlet on the Plug-in Prius as I don't have one.

Haha about the beeping when in reverse. Priuses have done then since the beginning of the Gen 2 model year (04). I don't recall if the Gen 1 does it as I've only driven one once.

As for the VPNS, well, it's the same sound across all Toyota and I believe Lexus hybrids, not just the Prius. It started appearing on the '12 Toyota hybrids.

 

[shade]

OK, so 430 miles in to being a RavEV driver, I experienced a version of the EV Warning Light. After work, I started the EV, and instead of displaying a range of 80 miles, it just said "lo," and then as the system check completed I got both warning lights over the small display in the dash. :shock: Suddenly, the "lo" went back to 80, the EV Warning Screen popped on, and it wouldn't go in to drive. I powered down, then on, same thing, but this time no "lo," just the accurate range. Still wouldn't go in to drive. Power cycle, same thing. Power cycle again, only this time, I only get the little exclamation mark warning and even though the EV warning screen is still there, it will go in to drive.

I drive home, and when I get there, another power cycling attempt clears all warnings.

So, now it seems clear and is working properly.

The question I have is if I should bring it in to the dealer, even though the warnings have cleared and it can now drive.

Heading to the dealer is a bit of trek (50 miles), so I am wondering what I should do.

Thanks-

DB

 

[TonyWilliams]

Yes, take it to a dealer and get the gateway computer replaced.

 

[the2bobs]

I'm sorry to say that I'm back in "Check EV System" limbo. This will be the 5th dealer visit and over 30 days in the shop at this point So far they've updated the firmware (twice), replaced the high voltage water heater due to a bad connector, and replaced the Gateway ECU. I'm wondering if AC use might be related though as the recent heat wave has forced me to use the AC quite a bit, possibly causing condensation in sensitive parts of the compartment like another poster was seeing. I'm quite curious to see what they find this time.

 

[snoltor]

Not so sure, I've been using AC throughout the four months I've had mine, gets pretty hot up here in the Sacramento area.... that or my system is about to go down as we speak.

I'm wondering if AC use might be related

 

[madcow]

I'm sorry to say that I'm back in "Check EV System" limbo. This will be the 5th dealer visit and over 30 days in the shop at this point So far they've updated the firmware (twice), replaced the high voltage water heater due to a bad connector, and replaced the Gateway ECU. I'm wondering if AC use might be related though as the recent heat wave has forced me to use the AC quite a bit, possibly causing condensation in sensitive parts of the compartment like another poster was seeing. I'm quite curious to see what they find this time.

Uh oh, I'm having my high voltage coolant pump changed out as we speak. I think they are working on it again because I got another e-mail that the charging was interrupted again (but when I checked the car was fully charged).

 

[dark]

Did Toyota and traps figure out the cause of the EV warning?

My car is at the dealer for 4 days already, with unknown issue and unknow estimate time for the fix.

I am guessing it will be there for another week.

 

[hapaboy]

Add me to the list with the check EV problem. Just drove my new rav4 from the dealer in Carson to San Diego (~100 miles), charged it overnight on the 120V line and tried starting up the car this morning and received the check EV light. VIN ending in 1834.

 

[miimura]

Add me to the list with the check EV problem. Just drove my new rav4 from the dealer in Carson to San Diego (~100 miles), charged it overnight on the 120V line and tried starting up the car this morning and received the check EV light. VIN ending in 1834.

Try "starting" the car 5 or more times to see if the car will come READY. At least then you can drive the car to a dealer for service instead of waiting for a tow.