Portable OpenEVSE at 40A

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GlennD said:
Fooljoe, I just finished an enhanced version of the charger I sold you. It has MOV transient protection, Voltage and current metering, a 12V 80A relay, and a GE 40A range cord with a molded 14-50 plug. If you know anyone looking I will sell it for $375. It requires a J1772 cable. It can take up to #6 wire.
Sounds awesome Glenn - would be a perfect complement to Tony's new J1772 cable.
 
ehelmholtz said:
GlennD said:
Fooljoe, I just finished an enhanced version of the charger I sold you. It has MOV transient protection, Voltage and current metering, a 12V 80A relay, and a GE 40A range cord with a molded 14-50 plug. If you know anyone looking I will sell it for $375. It requires a J1772 cable. It can take up to #6 wire.
Hi, Glenn!
Welcome to the Rav4 forum. Please feel free post a photo of your build here especially if it's portable. Is it a 120V/240V one? Also, I just advertised this openEVSE build on the i3 facebook page for you.

Thanks, It is listed on MNL if you can get through. They are under a DOS attack.

Here is a single photo of it on 120VAC

 
The EVSE is sold. Thanks for letting me post here. Maybe some day the numbers will work and I will have a RAV4 EV. I will not have a hydrogen car!
 
Hi Glenn:

I should have waited!!

Anyway, since the EVSE you sold me will sometimes (or most of the time) work at 120V, will the inboard charger on the RAV4 charge at a higher rate than 12A at 120V? If so, it would be worth my while to build a 120V converter.

BTW, what model Leviton socket are you using with your converter cable? I was looking at the model 55050 (14-50) but was told by both Leviton and the store on Amazon that it didn't have provision for a cable clamp and couldn't be used on a cable. Instead I found a UtiliTech at Lowes (they have both 14-50 and 14-30) that works fine. Your Leviton is more compact so it would be an advantage.

Mike
 
The RAV4 will charge at 20 amps on 120 vac. All surface mount 14-50s, I have seen have come with a cable clamp. I have a number that I didn't need, I you want one.
 
Phil:

I can use two, although one can be a 14-20 or 14-30. I won't be able to make the 3/29 gathering, but should be able to come the one on 4/5. Can you bring them there?

Mike
 
I have a 14-50r just like that one and it came with a cable clamp, but it should be noted that there's still a gaping hole in the inlet so it's not exactly watertight or "safe" in exposed conditions - maybe that's why you were told it's not supposed to be used with a cable?

I hear the rav will charge up to 20a on 120v but it didn't work when I tried it with my upgraded Leaf EVSE. Although it sounds like Glenn didn't modify the software on this one to vary the pilot on L1, but that's an easy fix.
 
I tested 120 vac at 20 amps with an OpenEVSE.

There is an opening with the flat cable I used for my 5-15 to 14-50 adapter, if you use soow 10/3 or larger you should be fine, 10/3 should fit in most 5-15 plugs, you might have to drill out the strain relief or use longer screws.
 
The UtiliTech came with a cable clamp, but it was too small to use with the 10/3 cable that came with my 10-30 dryer cable. I opted instead for a standard 3/4" cable clamp that I installed in the box. Since the dryer cord was 4' long, I now have more than 3' of 10/3 flat wire for other projects. I was planning to buy 1' of 12/3 for the 120V application, and 1' of 8/3 for a 6-50 to 14-50 converter. If anyone needs the 10/3, I can bring it to the meet on April 12 (sorry, I misspoke when I said April 5th).
 
Phil:

Thanks for the offer of the Leviton receptacles. I realized that the next gathering I can attend is 4/12 (I have to work this weekend), and that I have next week off. I decided to buy two receptacles, a 6-50 plug and a 12/3 120V 4-way extension cord that I can cut off to get a molded 5-15 plug/cable from Amazon ( I can re-attach a 5-15p so as to have a working 4-way extension). The 8/3 cable I can get at a local Lowes. I will bring my set of converters to show with along with the 3' length of 10/3 flat cable that will be free to give away.

Mike
 
Michael Bornstein said:
Hi Glenn:

I should have waited!!

Anyway, since the EVSE you sold me will sometimes (or most of the time) work at 120V, will the inboard charger on the RAV4 charge at a higher rate than 12A at 120V? If so, it would be worth my while to build a 120V converter.

BTW, what model Leviton socket are you using with your converter cable? I was looking at the model 55050 (14-50) but was told by both Leviton and the store on Amazon that it didn't have provision for a cable clamp and couldn't be used on a cable. Instead I found a UtiliTech at Lowes (they have both 14-50 and 14-30) that works fine. Your Leviton is more compact so it would be an advantage.

Mike

Well, I build with what I have on hand since it is a hobby for me. I tend to favor Barbouri's Ver 4.2 board since I like its output circuit. The down side is that it requires a separate 12V supply. I could not fit all of that inside the box and still make it neat with the high power relay. It fit fine with the 240V 40A contrator.

I acquired a very tiny OpenEVSE Plus ver 2. It was so tiny I was able to fit the relay into the box with room to spare.

I have never made 2 units the same. I would go crazy making hundreds of same unit like the photos of the JuiceBox.
 
At this time I have a spare ver 4.21 board, An outdoor 16A EVSE using the cable you rejected and nothing else. I want the EVSE board as a spare "just in case".

I have no current plans to build another unit. Certainly not with another surface mount EVSE board since they cost to much. I just happened to acquire this one.
 
Mike if you REALLY REALLY want to change then if you order the parts I will do the work for you.

You need an OpenEVSE Plus ver 2 $135 at the OpenEVSE store. A Qianji JQX-62F-2C relay from Amazon $25. A junction box $14 at Home Depot.

I would take your existing front panel and use the new box to mount the components. The cables and glands would be reused.

To convert your old unit back to operation would require a i2c display ($12) for fixed current operation or a RGB display with RTC (57.50) plus an escutcheon and button. Plus cables or you could sell it like fooljoe's where the user supplies the cables.

The power meter is a very nice accessory but it does not effect the function. It adds about $15 to the cost.
 
GlennD said:
You need an OpenEVSE Plus ver 2 $135 at the OpenEVSE store. A Qianji JQX-62F-2C relay from Amazon $25. A junction box $14 at Home Depot.

Glenn:

If I get these parts for you, what would you give me for whats left over from my old unit?

Mike
 
GlennD said:
. A Qianji JQX-62F-2C relay from Amazon $25.

Glenn:

I assume you mean this relay:

DC 12V Coil 80A 28VDC 250V AC High Power Relay DPDT JQX-62F 2C by Amico

currently $27.71 on Amazon.

The OpenEVSE Plus v.2 is only $115 as a quick kit, $155 built. Which do you want?

If you gan give me a good price ( :) ) for the bottom half of my current system, I can get you the parts on 4/12 after the meeting.

Mike
 
Thanks, I would be happy to build up your modified EVSE but I have no use for your old unit. By the way, I forgot that I would reuse the GFCI coil so that adds another $15 to fixing up the old unit.

I could make it a resalable for you like fooljoe's as a 240V unit only.

Yes the relay is sold by a vender so that is the relay. So far I have purchased and used 2 of them. The price has gone up slightly.

On the OpenEVSE I quoted the fully assembled unit. The diy unit is fine since the construction is very light.

By the way, that relay will not fit into Chris's beautiful new case by about 3/8ths of an inch. I tried!
 
Glenn:

I think we have a deal :D . I will put together a parts list and send it to you by e-mail tonight. If it looks good, do you think you can assemble both units in the afternoon of 4/12, or would I have to leave them with you?

Mike
 
Michael Bornstein said:
Glenn:

I think we have a deal :D . I will put together a parts list and send it to you by e-mail tonight. If it looks good, do you think you can assemble both units in the afternoon of 4/12, or would I have to leave them with you?

Mike

The upgraded unit is no problem. It depends on what is used for displays. Most of the time for me at least is cutting the display holes. I do know how your mechanical skill set is but I would welcome your help.

I wired an EVSE for Adrian for his Volt. He did a wonderful job mounting the parts. It only took an hour or so to wire and test the unit.

I rarely build incomplete units. Most people want a complete working unit. People like JasonA are few and far between. You purchased a complete unit and I upgraded the cable.
 
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