Upgrading my interior lights to LEDs + Rear Lights [UPDATED]

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Well-known member
Sep 27, 2015
EDIT: That's weird my original post was not complete. I edited and it is now showing my full LED light list. It was auto hiding half of my orignal post. Don't know why and I wasn't using BB code. I had to disable bb code and smilies so it would stop doing that. Now my full post is showing. AlsoDo not automatically parse URL.

I looked at this nice guide here


and decided that it was time to upgrade the RAV4 EV's interior lights and rear lights.. Ok, so I also popped my knee and it is swollen so i can't walk so I have a lot of spare time. Yorkim sounds like a pretty good maker so I am getting all the lights from them so the color can be as consistent as possible.

Dome light and cargo light

For the map and vanity lights as well as the license plate lights I am getting these 194 bulbs

For the rear lights I found

But it almost seems that you can use the 194 bulbs for them. The designs look different and I am not sure if I should go with 921 LED bulbs or 194 if the 194 can be used?

I'm also considering on changing the rear turning signal AMBER lights, but I am unsure if these lights are incandescent or LEDs already. Does anyone know? Also, what about the front turning lights? AMBER LEDS? I know the high beams are not LEDS and instead halogen? So I am considering upgrade those too.

once i get everything and installl them I'll take pics of before and after for the results :)
The lights really help they are much brighter and super cooler. I actually burned my finger with one of the regular lights as I pulled them off after taking a picture. The LEDs stay cool. The brightness really does make a huge difference at night. The color really is white while the other is yellow

Oh the dome and cargo leds are a bit large for their slots. You can still get them in there, but it is tough and the dome slipped out once after installing. Other than that though the dome and cargo LEDS are omega bright. Much brighter than the 194s







I'm tempted by this mod... I like LEDs :)
how did you remove the covers for the map lights?
Is it just pull the plastic cover that triggers the switch? or take down the whole enclosure (both lights + sunglasses holder)
Just look at pauls guide its the first link in my post. He has pics on how to do it. You just pull the glass cover for the light bulb but they have little tooth notches. It is not hard I've never done anything like this before and it went well. Just the cabin and cargo leds are a little large so it will be a little hard to fit but they do fit. The lights are great at night helps when looking for stuff or reading. The dome light and the argo are very bright.
Paul's guides were very useful.
I was able to put the new LEDs no problem and the interior looks much nicer now. thanks for the tip!
I even used some of the spare bulbs to update our ICE backup suv :)

watching Paul's guide made me wonder... is there an air cabin filter for these cars? I didn't see one upon cursory inspection.
eplantz said:
KurtManz said:
... is there an air cabin filter for these cars? I didn't see one upon cursory inspection.

in the large glove box

Indeed... I earned an RTFm with that one...
and I'm ordering filters right now... the one in the car is in dire need of replacement.

I found this... we'll see if it works well..
Generally, I like to use OEM parts, but I bought a pair of the Kootek cabin filters to try. The packaging has improved (misspellings removed) and it appears to be a decent quality product. We've had quite a bit of ash falling here (from wildfires in eastern Washington and British Columbia), and I knew I'd have to change mine again. I had last changed mine last Fall, and sure enough when I pulled it out yesterday, there was quite a bit of ash sitting in it, so it was time :)

Visually comparing the OEM 87139-50100 to the Kootek KCF005, the OEM filter has more loose charcoal bits, more pleats, and is darker in appearance which implies more charcoal content. The felt-like end caps seem identical between the two.

I gave $39 for the OEM filter, $13 for a two-pack of the Kooteks.

Thanks for the pointer to the OEM filter Al. I'll keep that link saved.

newbie question: you had to install the Kooteks witht he arrow pointing DOWN, right?
The original filter had an arrow pointing up (with the word up printed), but the dirt was on the top side... which implies air flow goes down...
the Kooteks filter has the arrow pointing on the direction of the air flow.. thus goes down...
I changed my cabin air filter a while back but I think I need to change it again. I recall looking for it on amazon and it was activated charcoal type. Though there are a bunch more at ebay for very very cheap in price.Not sure on quality from the ones in ebay, but I recall there were some options there. I was too lazy to buy the one from ebay....

oem charcoal





nice find on the filterws asavage should be helpful for a lot of people looking!
KurtManz said:
The original filter had an arrow pointing up (with the word up printed), but the dirt was on the top side... which implies air flow goes down...
the Kooteks filter has the arrow pointing on the direction of the air flow.. thus goes down...

The dirt & ash was on the top of the old filter, yes: airflow downward.

At work -- an industrial setting -- the arrow on a filter indicates flow direction (whether liquid or gaseous filters). However, from what I've gleaned in reading online, if the word "UP" is combined with an arrow, that indicates that the demarcated side is to be on top. And that's the way I reinstalled the Kootek filter.

TBH, I don't know that it makes a lot of difference, and I suspect that in this application the "UP" and arrow are there primarily as an attempt to prevent people from asking, "which way is it supposed to be installed?". That it doesn't work out that way just illustrates the folly of Man.

I have electronic units at work whose input can be AC or DC, but whose installation instructions indicate, "if using DC, use this terminal for negative and that for positive," as if the bridge rectifier downstream cares which terminal is used for neg or pos. IOW, it's either bad technical writing or an attempt to forestall tech support calls by providing accurate but meaningless information.

I just watched cashcow's linked YouTube vid, and I agree with the info presented with the exception of his calling the damper hydraulic when a more-accurate term would be pneumatic. And disconnecting its eyelet from the split-barb post that is molded into the right side of the glovebox does not require squeezing/pinching the split barb, because the barb will self-compress all by itself, just pulling on the eyelet.
I was working on routing a multi-conductor cable through the firewall today, which had me take out the glovebox (and about five electronic modules!), and I couldn't remember when I'd last changed this cabin filter. Turns out, I left myself a clue:



I think I got my money's worth out of it :)
Fortunately, that $13 back in 2018 was for two filters, and I had the second one ready to install, just had to scribble the date on it.

That 2-pack is now $14 . . . nice that "inflation" hasn't hit them.