miimura said:I would tell them the car is not operable without heat and they need to provide a loaner until it's fixed. Also, open a case with Toyota corporate. Another person in the same situation had the lead time miraculously reduced from a month plus down to a week by doing that.
Yes, that was me. I took it in on Dec 6 and got it back December 10 when they originally told me that the part won't arrive until January 6. I just took my 2nd Rav there Dec 16 and they told me the same that that part won't arrive until middle of January. I called Toyota and filed a claim (2nd claim) right a way. The claim manager called me yesterday and told me that my Rav was waiting for Tesla Engineers, not part. I called my service adviser at Toyota of Palo Alto and found out my service adviser was out sick and that another service adviser told the Claim Manager the wrong information. I think they were confused and gave the wrong information to the Claim Manager (there is another Rav4EV that has EV check error message that was waiting for Tesla Engineers). I called the Claim Manager and left a message. I hope to hear back from him today of when my part for my 2nd Rav should arrive at the dealer.miimura said:I would tell them the car is not operable without heat and they need to provide a loaner until it's fixed. Also, open a case with Toyota corporate. Another person in the same situation had the lead time miraculously reduced from a month plus down to a week by doing that.shade said:So, the EV has been at dealer since last Friday for a broken heater. Supposedly the heating unit has been replaced, but the "circuit board" (?) is back ordered until February, so no heat until then. Dealer wants me to pick it up. If it was April, no problem, but I am not happy about having no heat for January and February.
13935 verified heater inop. Has code B14C4 (Electric Water Heater Circuit). Inspected connecters at heater & A/C amplifier, OK. Inspected resistance BON DC/DC converter fuses for in cabin heater + & - sides, has continuity. Inspected resistance of in cabin heater, has 1.2 megaohms + to -, & 321 ohms - to +.10 amp A/C-IGCT fuse OK. Has B= at connector D15 terminal 2. No can codes. Cleared code, performed active test on heater, data list does not show heater on & code resets. Need to replace cabin heater & recheck. Called TAS case#TA133500200. Due to back ordered parts for heater. As per FTS, installed heater from new car (VIN#2T3YL4DV0EW002339). Bled heater system, operation OK at this time
waidy said:I think they were confused and gave the wrong information to the Claim Manager (there is another Rav4EV that has EV check error message that was waiting for Tesla Engineers).
The Tesla engineers were at Toyota Palo Alto when I picked up my 2nd Rav. I don't know which car they were looking at. The service department open today (Saturday). You should call your service adviser to see whether they were looking at your EV.Braxus said:If it is a white one @ Toyota Palo Alto, that's most likely mine as I am waiting for the Tesla Engineers. Whatever issue I'm having has even the Tesla folks stumped last update I got from them.
I feel the same. Except they already took my Rav apart and did not want to put it back. They classified it "UN-driveable". Therefore, I was forced to take a loaner EV. If you are taking it to Toyota Palo Alto, they should have a Chevy Spark EV for you.Sun2Drive said:I have a dead heater, too. It was easy to tell by looking at the accessories power draw (<1kw). The dealer said the parts would be 2-4 weeks and they would be happy to give me a gas burning loaner car. I'd have to pay for gas and would not be able to use the HOV lane, so I said "No thank you." I'm fine bundling up to survive the cold.
I did not encounter any problem with charging nor driving in re-gen mode. I was shock to hear that the DC DC unit failed and needed to be replaced. There was no sign what so ever.Sun2Drive said:Question to you all is how do I tell if my DC-DC converter is working? The dealer said they "...found short in the heater and open in the DC/DC converter." I just checked my battery and it is 12.6V after 200 miles of driving with radio, map, and some headlights. I'm hoping to keep driving my RAV4, check the battery periodically, and hook up a battery charger if/as needed. If I remember right, someone said it is OK to charge the battery without disconnecting it.
FWIW, on the '13 Leaf SV and SL trims (not the new base S trim), they changed to a hybrid heater (http://sfbayleafs.org/news/2013/01/2013-nissan-leaf-product-highlights/), which has a heat pump and resistive (PTC I believe) portion.Dianne said:I thought mine was also malfunctioning and brought it in. My head tech said "it's fine, no problem" so I decided to try harder.
Here's what you gotta do. And, some of the button pressing has to be done twice because it likes to bounce back or default to other settings.
Net end of things, here's where you get quick heat... and quick heat for this car is gonna take ya 2 minutes.
...
I have had folks call me about heaters and I have said "try this" and in most cases it's working fine, but I am also told this is a well known issue with EVs and they have a fix for it.
Dianne said:I have had folks call me about heaters and I have said "try this" and in most cases it's working fine, but I am also told this is a well known issue with EVs and they have a fix for it.
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