Replacement Inlet

[ZoNiE]

Well, a "free" charger at a grocery store melted my inlet.
My local toyota dealer who put a new motor in my car has told me they are not allowed to service these cars.
They tell me it is toyota but I'm calling BS on that. I have a Carvana/Silver Rock warranty which will cover it but who can replace it?
I can do it myself, but I am only finding 32A rated connectors. I need a 40, or is the 40 really a 32?

 

[miimura]

Call the Toyota Customer Experience Center at 800-331-4331 and open a case with them. They should be able to find you a dealer that will work on your car.

 

[asavage]

Well, a "free" charger at a grocery store melted my inlet. My local toyota dealer who put a new motor in my car has told me they are not allowed to service these cars. They tell me it is toyota . . .

It's possible that your dealer really can't do this job. See below.

I can do it myself . . .

A post by Tony in 2016 got me to looking around at this a while back. There appear to be three different Inlet Sub-Assembly versions for the 2012-2014 RAV4 EV:

• Inlet Sub-Assembly G9081-0R012 (All 2012-Feb2013)
• Inlet Sub-Assembly G9081-0R013 (Feb2013-May2014)
• Inlet Sub-Assembly G9081-0R014 (May2014-Aug2014)

From Tony's post in 2016:

Toyota is refusing to cover this as warranty work and want to charge $700 for a new plug . . .

Well, again, we can probably get this taken care of for a fraction of what Toyota wants. You would have to send us you damaged inlet, and that is predicated on it being the newer version that is easy to pop out.

If it is not, then the traction battery has to be dropped. $700 might be a bargain!!!

If you have a early version, that has the long wire harness that requires the battery to be removed from the vehicle in order to replace the Inlet Sub-Assy., well Toyota will only allow its dealers to R&R the battery IF they have a unique lift (or lift adapter) to support the battery during R&R. This might be why the dealer is declining to repair.

 

[ZoNiE]

Well from what I can tell, the harness is wired directly to the connector, Have no clue where the other end goes. 2013 model, SN1988, so probably screwed and it is the one that needs the battery to be dropped. The dealer I now have it at will let me know if they can or will do it. If not, I'll do something myself. It ain't rocket science, and I can safely repair it. I am in the automation and controls biz...

 

[ZoNiE]

Well, a "free" charger at a grocery store melted my inlet. My local toyota dealer who put a new motor in my car has told me they are not allowed to service these cars. They tell me it is toyota . . .

It's possible that your dealer really can't do this job. See below.

I can do it myself . . .

A post by Tony in 2016 got me to looking around at this a while back. There appear to be three different Inlet Sub-Assembly versions for the 2012-2014 RAV4 EV:

• Inlet Sub-Assembly G9081-0R012 (All 2012-Feb2013)
• Inlet Sub-Assembly G9081-0R013 (Feb2013-May2014)
• Inlet Sub-Assembly G9081-0R014 (May2014-Aug2014)

The dealer is a dirtbag who refuses to work on anything on the car. Even the washer fluid pump. They did replace the DU last year, but then the next one they worked on took them 3 months and the customer gave them a bad review.



From Tony's post in 2016:

Toyota is refusing to cover this as warranty work and want to charge $700 for a new plug . . .

Well, again, we can probably get this taken care of for a fraction of what Toyota wants. You would have to send us you damaged inlet, and that is predicated on it being the newer version that is easy to pop out.

If it is not, then the traction battery has to be dropped. $700 might be a bargain!!!

If you have a early version, that has the long wire harness that requires the battery to be removed from the vehicle in order to replace the Inlet Sub-Assy., well Toyota will only allow its dealers to R&R the battery IF they have a unique lift (or lift adapter) to support the battery during R&R. This might be why the dealer is declining to repair.

 

[asavage]

It's too bad that parts.toyota.com only shows the build months as the cutovers for the various versions, and not by VIN; you might go to one of the links I posted, and plug in your VIN and have it show you which Inlet Sub-Assy. is needed. The site's not all that friendly . . .

My 2014 (per VIN) uses the "middle"/cheapest one, per my VIN on that site.

(It looks like you have a duplicate quoted post above? You might want to delete that.)