Another DOA Rav, time to troubleshoot- seems OBC fuses are fine ;-(

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Note. The cause of the BMS_f071 code (alert) may be a critical malfunction in any Tesla system, not just in the Inverter
For example, one of the reasons for this code
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/_f107.png
shown in
I was looking at this and thanks for the info, however I have a BMS/ battery monitoring unit I made (some people have asked) from the dark ages/ leaf days that was re-purposed / programmed for the Rav and I pick up max/min cells, min/max temps, voltage/amps, etc..

Now while its not hooked up right now because it gets it data from the back of the gataway CAN, I've checked and all the cells are good so that's probably not the issue. This is an odd one, and I've seen that one vid you have Allflash that's just like mine, no errors, but no READY and just won't do anything..

1715090406403.png

For all you ex-Leafer's out there....same unit... just made it home :p
1715090728197.png
RIP Gary (aka.Mr.GID).
 
So I disconnected the 12v (again) and jacked it up and went under and wacked it real good with a rubber mallet all over the front and bottom and it still just starts up, no errors... no READY :cry:

I"m starting to wonder also about this "other" pyro fuse or power source the contactor can 12v from?? there's history on here that others have talked about and I see this part...
https://www.ebay.com/p/2075515255

But there are threads like this also talking about a pyro fuse behind the screen or dash??? that feeds a blue wire or comes from the up front 15a box??

https://www.myrav4ev.com/threads/replacing-battery-contactors-code-clearing.2316/

Just trying to find this ghost....

EDIT: is there vids or how do I get to the power control module?? etc.. I guess I can start tearing apart a few panels to check some things since rodents were a discussion in the beginning
 
I was looking at this and thanks for the info, however I have a BMS/ battery monitoring unit I made (some people have asked) from the dark ages/ leaf days that was re-purposed / programmed for the Rav and I pick up max/min cells, min/max temps, voltage/amps, etc..

Now while its not hooked up right now because it gets it data from the back of the gataway CAN, I've checked and all the cells are good so that's probably not the issue. This is an odd one, and I've seen that one vid you have Allflash that's just like mine, no errors, but no READY and just won't do anything..

I was looking at this and thanks for the info, however I have a BMS/ battery monitoring unit I made (some people have asked) from the dark ages/ leaf days that was re-purposed / programmed for the Rav and I pick up max/min cells, min/max temps, voltage/amps, etc..

Now while its not hooked up right now because it gets it data from the back of the gataway CAN, I've checked and all the cells are good so that's probably not the issue. This is an odd one, and I've seen that one vid you have Allflash that's just like mine, no errors, but no READY and just won't do anything. ...
If a pyrocartridge is triggered that breaks the contactor power circuit, the corresponding fault code is stored in the SRS system. Your description does not imply that it is defective.

If necessary, and with the help of AnyDesk software, we can look at your vehicle's Tesla system with "four eyes .

IMHO. I don't rule out that in version 1.1.46 the BMS_w023 code was excluded from the database.

Yes, unfortunately, there are too many bugs in Tesla's self-control system software :(( For example,


Off. Data (fragm.) from BMS about bricks and cells of RAV4EV Battery
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/cells_data.png
 
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Hi Vlad,

Saw your post on the vid as well and thanks for the info too! Your site and links have a wealth of Rav info! Nothing happens when plugged in as seen in the previous vid I made. When attempted, its waits for a bit and does the random on & off blinking.... then BOTH flash ON & OFF and i get the error. Usually at that time the charger or system will attempt to engage the pack/ contactors/ HV system but it doesn't.

That vid you posted, if it didn't have the "music" overlay ontop of it, would we hear the contactors kicking in since we see HV showing up on the system and TPD showing for a quick moment engaging it?? I never get those messages or anything thing, or any HV on my system.

In that vid, I think it has a totally different problem also.. that Rav is showing NO voltage or anything from the BMS to the display as its LO.. and it goes into READY for a brief moment and goes into BMS DRIVE, etc...
1715180774383.png
Unfortunatly with mine, even powering up, starting up, etc I can't even get the READY to flash or show. A few have pinged me saying it could be the "smart key" or body immobilizer/ security that controls the ECU and the READY status.. but i can't find anything wrong..

Right now it just sits with no codes, no errors, just no READY.. and if i plug the J1772 in, i get the bms_f062 contactor power error.

I unplug everything.. power the 12v back up... no errors, no codes... no READY.. unless i plug in the 1772 and i get the bms_f062.

Rinse and repeat.. kinda sounds like contactors maybe??
 
Perhaps I missed a detail: have you tried charging, with the smaller HV wires connected in the junction box, but the motor HV leads still disconnected?

If you can get access to the low voltage connector on the battery pack, the contactor power feed is a blue wire going to pin 7; it should have 12V on it with the ignition on.
 
Perhaps I missed a detail: have you tried charging, with the smaller HV wires connected in the junction box, but the motor HV leads still disconnected?

If you can get access to the low voltage connector on the battery pack, the contactor power feed is a blue wire going to pin 7; it should have 12V on it with the ignition on.
Yeah, I've tried to charge and power up, etc with the motor disconnected (tried that this last weekend) and still nada. does basically the same thing except ISO values change.

the car acts identically the same with EVERYTHING unplugged from the bottom of the battery box, motor, HV leads, etc. car still powers up fine and NO ready, NO errors, etc... unless i try to plug in the 1772..

EDIT and the only way to get access to that ""LOW VOLTAGE connector" on the pack is by dropping it right ??? :oops: :D
 
I spent a lot of time making a "Tesla systems only" wiring diagram for the RAV4 EV, and I can confirm what Matt posted above.

Beware: it's a large PNG -- it's the entire system -- and your browser may not render it. FF seems to deal OK, if your OS has enough RAM available.
Thanks for this! grabbed it and going to take a look and test some points for voltage.. like what I asked Matt above.. and from what I've seen in vids..

that battery connector is only accessible when the pack is dropped huh??

Or i cut a hole through the bottom of the floor! :p
 
and where is this pyro fuse located??
1715186330513.png
I've been looking around but guess I need to pull the factory manuals and dig.. also, everything seems fine and good voltage
1715186456545.png
 
EDIT: So I'm thinking right here??? behind the dash / screen??

IDK, but there are TWO "pyrotechnic safety switches":

1715188549338.png
Keep looking, because IDK whether the one you've found (from a non-EV manual?) is the one you think it is.

[later]
I think these are two connectors perhaps on the same switch?
E128 & E129 are connector designations. Looking further, I'm thinking it's one switch after all.
 
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Hi Vlad,

Saw your post on the vid as well and thanks for the info too! Your site and links have a wealth of Rav info! Nothing happens when plugged in as seen in the previous vid I made. When attempted, its waits for a bit and does the random on & off blinking.... then BOTH flash ON & OFF and i get the error. Usually at that time the charger or system will attempt to engage the pack/ contactors/ HV system but it doesn't.

...
Right now it just sits with no codes, no errors, just no READY.. and if i plug the J1772 in, i get the bms_f062 contactor power error.

I unplug everything.. power the 12v back up... no errors, no codes... no READY.. unless i plug in the 1772 and i get the bms_f062.

Rinse and repeat.. kinda sounds like contactors maybe??
Clarification. This my video is not an illustration of the malfunction of your vehicle. This video demonstrates that Tesla's self-diagnostic system does not react adequately to some situations.

In the bottom corner, there is a video of the synchronous recording of the voltmeter, which shows that the contactors turn on briefly for a fraction of a second and turn off.

The charging attempt ends with simultaneous flashes of both SDs for 10 seconds, as shown in the 2nd half of this video


Question. Is the orange cover of the Sevice Plug Grip* inserted correctly? Can you remove it without opening its rocker arm as shown in
?

Update. Is the fuse located in the cover of this connector working properly?

Note. For pyrotech switch RAV4EV SRS system have this DTC
B19B0/A4 Short in Pyrotechnic Safety Switch** Squib Circuit
B19B1/A4 Open in Pyrotechnic Safety Switch Squib Circuit
B19B2/A4 Short to GND in Pyrotechnic Safety Switch Squib Circuit
B19B3/A4 Short to B+ in Pyrotechnic Safety Switch Squib Circuit
But Techstream Health Check Results for your vehicle don't have these codes.

I assume that analyzing the value of the parameters during charging would allow us to localize the problem.

* https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/_062cause.png
_062cause.png


Update 2.
**Off. https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/pyro.jpg
pyro.jpg


Update 3.
I assume that you can check the voltage supply to the contactors at HV battery connector
https://alflash.com.ua/2019/to_rav4ev/_pow_contactor.png
_pow_contactor.png
 
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I have verified that this one is for the SRS:
1715188754198.png

However, SRS may also have a role in opening contactors. IDK. I noted above that the R&R section shows TWO connectors to this safety switch, so E128 & E129 may both connect here.

The nav receiver has to come out to access it.

This video demonstrates that Tesla's self-diagnostic system does not react adequately to some situations.
For example, I parked mine two days ago and plugged in to charge at home. No issues.
Just now, I went to use the car for an appointment, and "Check EV System" was on IC, but without turning off car, there are NO Alerts in Current or History in TPD. I had to cycle the power only three times to clear the IC message.

The Toyota side remembers that the Tesla side asked for a MIL illumination, but the Tesla side forgets rather quickly. Vlad is right.
 
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Thanks for this! grabbed it and going to take a look and test some points for voltage.. like what I asked Matt above.. and from what I've seen in vids..

that battery connector is only accessible when the pack is dropped huh??

Or i cut a hole through the bottom of the floor! :p

You''ll need to disconnect the battery connector if/when you drop your pack ;). It is accessible with the pack installed (easier if you have access to a lift), but you'll probably want a small inspection mirror to see what you're doing, including pushing the locking tab to remove the connector. As I recall, there's a zip tie that needs to be cut first to remove a rubber boot over the connector.

Alternatively, there's only one blue wire in the battery pack harness, see if you can find it and probe through the insulation to check for voltage.
 
Thanks everyone for the info, give me til a bit later in the day and I'll check things out.. have some meetings and stuff to do but I'll troubleshoot and test later and see what I can find.

Vlad, in that one vid you posted with the charging.. we can def hear the contactors kicking in or the "THUD" that it makes. However with mine i never get that or any noise etc from the pack.

I just get the 2 lights from the charger going in sequence just like normal or like yours... and waits like its trying to engage the pack or contactors... then BOTH flash...

but no THUD or THUNK from the pack :cry:

About the ""PYRO" fuse, even if its for the SRS system, why does it show it inline on the wiring diags and talk about it in the schematics??

Just another thing to check i guess..
 
I found the pyro fuse behind the main screen, etc and pulled it, checked it and its fine.. plugged it back in.. but now I'm getting the Check ABS (C1345) on the screen (that's new!! never had or seen that ever in its life since I've owned the car from the dealer lot) .. and I can't reset it with TechStream?? guess there's a way to reset it with the pin 4 to 13 trick and 5 to 8 pumps on the brake??

I'll have to try that later this afternoon... otherwise I'm about done with this car and throwing in the towel...

EDIT/REVISION.. I meant PIN 13 !! ;)
 
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