Another DOA Rav, time to troubleshoot- seems OBC fuses are fine ;-(

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Note. The fact that some pseudo-specialists have neither knowledge, nor skills, nor equipment for rewinding the stator windings of induction motors is not proof of the impossibility of performing this repair properly (*1).
Photos of different stages of this process. is posted (

For the information of a very large specialist with supposedly "expert" knowledge :))).
The stator windings are impregnated with a compound with the addition of plasticizers. Only those who have not even heard of such a concept as the temperature coefficient of expansion can remember about epoxy resin in this application.
IMO. I do not exclude that such an alleged specialist has never even seen with his own eyes a device called a megohmmeter.
And I do not rule out that he does not know the design of the stator housing of this electric motor well... :(

For reference, Ukrainians are not zany!
It's just that technical capabilities, knowledge and skills allow us to perform high-quality work that for some people seems "zany".

(*1) Video of remote diagnostics of this Minsk vehicle by the teslas soft from Odessa during its movement two years and one day after the installation of three-skirt Teflon seals, ceramic bearings and rewinding of stator windings

Update. By the way, craftsmen who rewind the stator had a funny case when they rewound a Tesla stator for the first time. They made a mistake with the packaging of the windings and the car went in the opposite direction. This was the first and last case. All other rewound stators work properly on more than a dozen Tesla, Rav4ev, Mercedes.

p.s. Resume. There is no need to spread your personal inability or ignorance to others.
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Well its about that time for our Rav to wig out now (and it has a beautiful factory Pearl White paint job too) but the wife was just 7 houses down the street at her parents, started it up, was pulling out of the driveway and it just wigged out with the dreaded EV error and take to stealership warning. Since we have the full Platimum / ext coverage... I called Toyota/ Hamer and they picked it up ASAP... then looked at it.. scratched their heads... said its the battery... and $17k and Bob's your Uncle and you'll be fine!! :D

But that won't fly.. knowing we've taken care of this car (custom BMS monitor, etc).. and the pack was in excellent condition and 125+ miles still of range.. I'm thinking or leaning towards the contactors but who knows.. so I had them bring it back up here and she sits.. I have the full Techstream SW and can reset the front panel or anything on the Toy side.. and have the TDP for checking on things...

So.. here we start.. as I've said or mentioned before... I've had (and was the OG tester/helper,etc) for the JaDEMO unit.. so 1st thing was I pulled it off (no one has this type of unit anymore but me, doubt even Tony still has this alpha unit still running)... but even after removal... and a full clear of codes.. nada.. still no READY..

So talking with asavage and looking at his pics.. I just went out and did a quick J-plug/OBC test to check fuses.... they all seem good :cry: DAMN!

So.. that leaves next steps then..
Fun times are ahead..
I'm in the same boat . Took to two Toyota dealers to install the fuses I purchased in Arizona and they both said " needs new battery not fuses . ,Tow it to California Toyota". Asavage said try a 208 volt professional charger but it won't let me charge . AAA and Good Sam have me on the do not call ( answer ) list . I was thinking if I pull the main discount and it might reboot and clear the error codes ? But you've cleared the tesla error codes and it still won't let you charge? What now?
I'm still undecided on non Tesla deletes. Tesla can definitely reprogram for heat soak. The rotors get very hot. Probably not an issue for the Rav4.
I'm installing a LDU rotor temp monitor, for data collection purposes. I don't have a good idea of how coolant delete Tesla firmware can make the rotor dissipate heat any faster; all it can do is limit the duration of certain power levels, and there's still no temperature sensing other than the stator (which has its own cooling).

Yeah, I'm hopeful that the lighter RAV4 combined with generally less aggressive driving I do, will keep me out of trouble. But somebody is going to push/test the limits. I assume that we will shortly hear tales of damaged rotors after coolant delete and spirited driving.
I hate to burst your bubble, but no one rewinds these stators. You need to cut multiple welds to get it out. You first need to remove the outer sheet that's wrapped around the inner aluminum coolant channels, only then can you cut the end off and try to press it out.
"Never Say Never Again"

Enjoy your meal, Sir!